Used Car Buyers: Make Sure It's All Good Under the Hood
Our targeted test drive can help you find a sweet ride, and steer clear of a lemon.
By Nick Say
So you’ve found the perfect used car. It’s the right color, the perfect price, and it’s loaded with your must-have extras. But what about the engine, transmission, and brakes—you know, the parts that keep your car driving?
Believe it or not, you don’t have to be a mechanic to give a used car a thorough examination (though you can certainly ask one to checkout the vehicle, too.) A targeted test drive using your eyes, ears and a flashlight, can potentially save you thousands.
PART 1: VISUAL EXAM (BRING A FLASHLIGHT!)
Under the Hood
Every used car test drive should begin with a visual check. Pop the hood and turn on your flashlight, but don’t start the car yet. You’ll want the engine off to examine it.
- Engine
Shine your flashlight on every part of the engine. Any wet, greasy, or “oily” spots usually indicate a fluid leak. If the spot is covered in dirt, it’s probably been leaking for some time. Point this out to the seller immediately. - Belts
Find the black rubber belts at the front of the engine, usually just behind the grille. On the inner side, you’ll notice thick raised areas, called "tracks". If the tracks are cracked or have missing chunks of rubber, the entire belt needs to be replaced. - Hoses
Finally, find the large, black hoses in front of and around the engine, and give them a squeeze; they should be firm with no cracks. As with the engine, look for greasy spots.
The Walk-Around
If everything in the engine bay checks out, close the hood, wipe off your hands, and go for a stroll around the car. Here's what you need to examine:
- Tires
Inspect the tires for small cracks in the rubber. This is called “dry rot,” and it’s a sign of aged, deteriorated rubber. Driving on dry-rotted tires is extremely dangerous; they can blow out at any time, especially at highway speeds. If you see dry rot, inform the seller that new tires are a condition of purchase. Beyond that, make sure the tires’ tread is worn evenly. Uneven tread wear could be a sign of alignment problems or frame damage. - Shocks and suspension
Also known as “struts,” shocks do more than give your car a smooth ride. They resist body roll, which means they help your car stop when you hit the brakes. Struts are filled with an oily fluid, and they have a bad habit of leaking as they age. Again, greasy spots covered in dirt mean the struts need to be replaced. - Door and window seals
The rubber weatherstripping around the vehicle’s windows and doors should be tight. No cracks, tears or loose spots.
PART 2: STARTING THE CAR
Idle Thoughts
A healthy car should only take a few seconds to start, and there shouldn’t be any squealing or grinding noises.
Before you put the car in gear, let it run, or “idle”, for 1-3 minutes. For this part of the test, the engine needs to be warm to identify most problems. As it idles, look and listen for:
- Exhaust smoke or odor
Motor oil can leak into your engine and burn, emitting a white-blue smoke from the exhaust. Steam isn't a problem, but burning engine oil creates noticeably thick smoke with a light-blue tint. It’s a serious problem, so be sure to stand a few feet behind the car to watch for it. While you’re back there, take note of any smells; if you smell gasoline, bring it up with the seller immediately. - In-dash warning lights
Yes, this includes the infamous “check engine light.” If any warning lights stay on as the car idles, ask the seller for an explanation. - Suspicious sounds
As the car idles, listen carefully for any grinding, squeaking, or ticking noises. They could have a myriad of sources, but suffice it to say, none of them are good.
PART 3: FINALLY! THE FIRST DRIVE
Assuming everything you've examined to this point looks, sounds, and smells normal, put the car in gear and hit the road.
If you're buying from a dealership, you'll probably have a salesperson with you in the car at this point. Try not to get lost in conversation—in this part of the test, you'll need your senses on high alert, remaining keenly aware of the car.
- Gear shifting
First, in vehicles with automatic transmissions, transitions between park, reverse, neutral, and drive should be smooth. Next, while driving, feel the car for jerking or lunging as it shifts from low to high gears, especially under 20 mph. This isn't always a problem, but it's something to note regardless. - Steering
Don’t ignore noises while steering or turning. They could indicate failing steering components, a loss of steering fluid, or a failing power steering pump. It’s better to bring these noises up with the seller than risk lose steering control on the road. - Braking
When it’s safe, roll down a window while braking and listen closely. Brake noises are common and not always a concern, but if you hear excessive squeaking, ask to have it examined. Next, feel the brake pedal itself; it should be firm, but it should reach the floor if pushed hard enough. The brake pedal should not vibrate under your foot—that’s a sign of worn or damaged brakes. - Misfires
Put simply, a misfire means the engine isn’t burning fuel properly. Misfires cause the car to “shiver” or “shudder” periodically while stopped. Simple tune-ups may fix a misfire, but they can also indicate a serious problem. If you notice the car shivering at a stoplight, bring it up with the seller.
If You're Still Not Sure ...
Friends or family members with car knowledge can be a great help; ask if they’re free to join you on the test drive. Feel free to ask the seller if you can take the car to a mechanic before signing the paperwork; after all, the worst they can say is “no.” Most importantly, always ask to see vehicle history reports. Reputable dealers will provide this information without hesitation.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Don’t feel guilty about thoroughly inspecting a used car, asking detailed questions, or even taking it to a mechanic. It’s your money, and you have every right to make sure you’re spending it on a truly sweet ride, not a lemon.
